A Simond Rope Team* on the summit of Jannu East
*Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines
The rope team formed by Nicolas Jean (26) and Benjamin Védrines (33) set off again at the end of August to tackle one of the last great challenges of the Himalaya: Jannu East (7,468 m), in the Kangchenjunga region, at the far eastern edge of Nepal. Their goal: to open a new route on the north face, a 2,250-metre vertical wall, in pure alpine style — without oxygen, fixed ropes or external assistance.
Meticulous preparation
In autumn 2024, they had already attempted the climb as a trio but were forced to turn back. This time, it was just the two of them — true to their preferred approach of climbing light and fast. Partners in major alpine ascents, they prepared with intensity and determination to achieve this extreme objective: to climb an unclimbed summit with total commitment. Since spring 2025, they have accomplished several impressive feats in the Alps. In May, Nicolas and Benjamin completed the full traverse of the Mont Blanc massif on skis via steep slopes in only three days; then in June, they achieved the four faces of Mont Blanc in a single day — 7,900 metres of ascent in just 21 hours. Since arriving in Nepal, the team has benefited from favourable weather and gradually acclimatised. Notably, on 26 September, they climbed Anidesh Chuli (6,808 m) via the north ridge — a first ascent of a previously virgin peak that provided ideal preparation for their main objective.
Jannu East summit reached — A historic first!
15th of October at 1:40 p.m., after two and a half days of ascent.
With an ideal weather window, all conditions were right to launch the ascent. On Sunday the 12th of October, they began the approach and spent their first night at the foot of the imposing north face. After two further nights on the wall, the rope team reached the summit on Wednesday the 15th of October at 1:40 p.m. (local time).
A world first ascent in pure alpine style — an achievement that opens a new chapter in the history of mountaineering.
“At the summit, there was great joy — though fairly contained. The last 500 metres were particularly gruelling, with unconsolidated snow up to our hips on very steep slopes, almost impassable steps, and a complex search for the true summit: what we believed to be the top of Jannu East turned out to be only a subsidiary peak, with the main summit lying slightly further west. It was mentally and physically exhausting, but together we decided to keep going, traversing the exposed snowy ridge about 150 metres westwards to reach the summit dome. We were in a state of deep fatigue, and it was crucial to stay lucid and focused for the descent — which became another battle in itself!
In the end, it’s a profound, almost intimate satisfaction, because this ascent is unique. It brings together everything that, to me, defines alpinism: alpine style, minimalism, high altitude, a big face, a virgin summit, and the pursuit of speed. Without a doubt, it is the most important ascent of my career. I also want to thank the Simond teams for their support and the gear they provided us, which I fully trusted during the ascent.”
_NICOLAS JEAN
“We had been dreaming of this summit for such a long time... Today, I am very happy, deeply moved, but also exhausted as rarely before. We had incredible conditions: a lot of snow, intense cold, and the freezing level at 4,500 m — something quite rare in the Himalaya.
We had stacked all the odds in our favour: optimal preparation, a light logistical setup, and above all, the strength of our partnership. Since 2019, our perfect understanding of one another, our shared decision-making, and our complementarity — both technical and physical — made this success possible. For me, it’s the climb of a lifetime.”
_BENJAMIN VÉDRINES
Cutting-edge, purpose-built equipment
Beyond physical preparation, equipment plays a crucial role. In high mountains — and especially on an ice wall — their hands become ice axes, their feet become crampons: trust in the gear must be absolute.
Both members of the Simond athlete team, the Chamonix-based brand fully invested in the success of the project through a demanding co-development process with the Simond design office: an ice axe, crampons, a harness, a backpack, and a tent — all ultra-light and specially designed for this expedition.
In the months leading up to departure, prototypes were created, tested and pushed to their limits. The result: lightweight, high-performance, durable equipment, designed with, for and by two elite alpinists.
Upon their return, their feedback will help refine and finalise the design of top-tier technical equipment. By supporting this project from the start, Simond aims to imagine the future of alpinism — and make it accessible to everyone — while sharing the core values of alpine style: autonomy, speed, lightness, simplicity and humility.
Key facts
- A previously unclimbed 7,468 m summit, conquered on the 15th of October 2025
- Two French alpinists: Benjamin Védrines (33) and Nicolas Jean (26)
- A pure alpine-style ascent, without oxygen or fixed ropes
- Safety equipment (crampons, ice axes, helmets, harnesses) designed in Chamonix by Simond
*Quick historical reminder, the first Simond ice axe, the Special A - Simond on top of the Annapurna with Maurice Herzog (1950) and with Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay on Everest (1953).
About Simond
Based in Chamonix since 1860, Simond is an iconic brand in the field of mountain equipment. Specialising in alpinism, climbing, trekking and ski touring, Simond has a long-standing expertise in metal craftsmanship. In 2008, Simond became part of the Decathlon Group. The brand continues to design and manufacture all its metal products — ice axes, crampons and carabiners — in its Chamonix factory. The design teams put their expertise at the service of product durability, ensuring technical, reliable and safe equipment for the most demanding mountaineers.
Photos ©SIMOND, ©QUENTIN DEGRENELLE, ©THIBAUT MAROT (download the press release for details).
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